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Any gouge on Essential Arms J-15?

Know a guy trying to offload one on me. Don't know much about the model or manufacturer.

Price? What do you plan on doing with this rifle? I can go in depth about the features you want in an AR-15, but if it's just going to be a plinker that you take to the range once a month then get it if the price is good.

There are plenty of better manufacturers out there, however, that build mil-spec rifles (or better than mil-spec). For your standard Direct Impingement systems (i.e. not gas piston) look at Colt, BCM, Noveske, Lewis Machine Tool (LMT), Spike's Tactical.

That being said, I would have no problem buying one of their stripped lowers and building a rifle off of that.

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Gents --

I just got a Bushmaster M-4'gery as a gift.

Anything I should be watching out for? Suggestions? Opinions?

Bushmaster isn't a bad rifle. What's the twist rate? It should say on top of the barrel, forward of the front sight. 99% of Bushmasters are 1/9 twist (mil-spec is 1/7), which means bullets over 69 grains will most likely not stabilize (right now the military mostly uses a 62 grain steel penetrator). Sometimes a 1/9 barrel will stabilize the heavier bullets, but you'll have to test that yourself. A 1/9 twist is fine for most people.

As long as you don't run into any problems, I wouldn't bother changing any of the internals (BCG, buffer, etc.). If you do, let us know and we'll steer you in the right direction. If you're interested in changing the stock, make sure you get one designed for a commercial receiver extension and not a mil-spec extension.

Buy an optic for it: Aimpoint, Trijicon, EoTech. Congrats on your new rifle. Pics?

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Price? What do you plan on doing with this rifle?

He says he wants $600 for it, but I don't think it's worth but maybe $500. I haven't seen it yet so I don't know the condition. I'd use it mainly for plinking and SHTF weapon. If it is what I'm picturing it's not really what I want in an AR which is a rail system, collapseable stock, etc. If I'm going to spend a few hundred bucks swapping out parts on it to get what I want wouldn't it be better just to build what I want from the start or should I modify the recivers using them as the base?

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Hoss, that's a nice rifle and I see it doesn't have the foolish M4 cut for an M203. That's totally useless nowadays, and even more so if you don't have a grenade launcher. Bushmaster makes a good rifle. Some of the parts, however, aren't mil-spec. As I mentioned earlier I wouldn't be too worried about changing any of those parts unless they fail (which I doubt they will). It's just something to be aware of. Buy an optic and a backup iron sight. As for the thong... strictly a comfort thing, right? Again, congrats on an awesome gift.

Vertigo, if it doesn't have the features you're looking for, I wouldn't bother buying it. There are so many options on how to modify an AR-15 and what to modify on it. So you want to buy an AR-15, huh? This has a lot of good information on what to look for in an AR-15. The guy also recommends certain AR-15s, but I'd ignore those. Some of the info is outdated, but not enough to make a huge difference. Keep in mind that the author wrote that thread for law enforcement/door kicker types. As a regular Joe, you may feel that certain features aren't that important to you. Remember that he is looking at mil-spec features. Those are a minimum required by the military, and in some cases some manufacturer's exceed those requirements. Others ignore them and cut corners (but this doesn't necessarily make them a bad rifle) to save on production. You have to ask yourself what you want as a base rifle. Once you figure that out you can pretty much do what you want with it. Personally, there are certain parts of the rifle that I want to meet/exceed mil-spec: barrel/barrel extension (type of steel and twist rate), bolt, bolt carrier, front sight base (if you choose to have the standard A frame), chrome lining, buffer, and receiver extension. AR-15.com AR Discussion also has good information.

If you want you can even build your own lower receiver with minimal tools. I've built 3 lowers for my AR-15s. All you need is a stripped lower, a lower parts kit (they usually come with triggers), and a buttstock kit (this will come with the receiver extension, buttstock, buffer, and buffer spring; you can buy these all separately too). You can also build the upper yourself as well, but you need some specific tools and a vise.

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He says he wants $600 for it, but I don't think it's worth but maybe $500. I haven't seen it yet so I don't know the condition. I'd use it mainly for plinking and SHTF weapon. If it is what I'm picturing it's not really what I want in an AR which is a rail system, collapseable stock, etc. If I'm going to spend a few hundred bucks swapping out parts on it to get what I want wouldn't it be better just to build what I want from the start or should I modify the recivers using them as the base?

You would do well looking at www.bravocompanyusa.com - they are almost a custom shop they have so many variations listed. Granted when you start slapping rails and collapsible stocks on an AR the price starts to go up rather rapidly. Then you realize you have all sorts of room for stuff on the rail so you end up buying optics, mounts for the optics, backup sights just in case the optics fail, then some sort of vertical foregrip to hold all that junk up, plus a light so you can see your target if it gets dark at the range... It seems like a never ending hole in which to throw your money down - but it is damn fun doing it...

Seriously, Bravo Company would likely have something you're looking for. You might also look into Smith and Wesson and see if you can find a deal on them since SW offers a $100 rebate to .mil folks. You could end up with a good gun at a reasonable price. Plus you can add parts and pieces as you go...

BF

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Between the two BigFreddie mentioned, Bravo Company (BCM) is the better choice. They use better steel in their barrels and a 1:7 twist rate. BCM makes very good ARs; I have two of their uppers and three of their bolt carrier groups. Another very good choice that has a great price point is Spike's Tactical. Their standard M4 style AR-15 meets most of the mil-spec items on "The Chart". I'm not sure if they pressure test their bolts or barrels, but it has everything else. That link gives a good explanation of each item and also provides it's own links for those who need more information. Just know that the chart only compares the standard M4 style AR by each company. Those items listed on the chart, however, are almost universal to each company's AR product line. Sometimes one of the companies on the right side of the chart (Bushmaster and Rock River specifically) will do limited runs on rifles that give them more checks on the chart (i.e. 1:7 twist). With the exception of HPT and MPI on both the barrel and bolt, most of the items on the chart are easily changed by the end user. Personally, I wouldn't change anything if I had a rifle on the right side of the chart unless it failed. Relatively speaking, there are only a handful of people that are going to shoot their rifles so much that they are going to run into problems. All that being said, I would trust my life with anything from Rock River through Colt.

Spikes ST-15 M4 Carbine and Spike's ST-15 M4 LE Carbine. The only difference between the two is the non-LE rifle has a cold hammer forged barrel, which commands a higher price. So if that's not important to you, you can have a top of the line AR-15 for $800. Spend the rest on accessories and ammo. You can even buy a drop in rail (free float even).

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Alright Timbonez, you can probably help me out. I have $1000 to spend on a 1911, which one? I was thinking Kimber Stainless II or a Sringfield Loaded. Thoughts?

I thought this might be useful for those looking for reference material in this thread...

:bash:

Cheers! M2

Damn, nice work. Almost pissed myself laughing. But...I've been drinking.

Edited by Spoo
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Why ya only asking T-bonez? :nob:

Upper right-hand corner, a Springfield Loaded Black Stainless with Target Sights...

IMG_2402.jpg

The bottom left is a Lightweight Operator, a very nice 1911 as well!

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Why ya only asking T-bonez? :nob:

Upper right-hand corner, a Springfield Loaded Black Stainless with Target Sights...

IMG_2402.jpg

The bottom left is a Lightweight Operator, a very nice 1911 as well!

Haha, don't be jealous, M2. Spoo just thinks I have better tastes in the 1911 realm... just kidding. That being said, however, I only own 3 1911s that cost under $1,000; my 4 others were all near or over $2k. I have no personal experience with the Springfield Loaded and limited experience with the Kimber. A friend of mine (he was my range buddy back in P'cola) has a Kimber Custom II, and it shot very well every time I used it. Kimber makes a fine production handgun.

On the other hand, I've never heard anything bad about SA 1911s. They're probably one of the most popular production 1911 manufacturers, and for good reason. If I remember correctly, the frames are made in Brazil, but everything else is made and assembled in the US. A few of the other firearms forums I frequent have a lot of people singing the Springfield TRPs praises. That's their flagship model and can be found brand new on gunbroker for just under $1400 for the rail-less version. Anyway, I'll defer to M2 since he actually owns several SA 1911s.

I'll never own a Colt AR-15, but I will own their 1911s. I have their flagship Special Combat Government Carry as well as an old Combat Commander I had built. I also own their Series 70 repro. If it were me, and I could only own a single 1911, and it had to be a production gun I'd get a Colt Series 70. I'd also look at Colt's XSE line, which is under $1,000. I don't care for the grip safety they use on them. It's more of a duckbill rather than an upswept beavertail; this theoretically limits how high of a grip you can get on the 1911. They just added a new model to the XSE line called the rail gun, which has a rail on the dust cover. It also uses a beavertail safety, and has a flat mainspring housing which is more common that the arched one (like on M2's GI .45 in the top left). I'm not really a fan of rails on 1911s, but this one looks sharp; if only I could find a blued one.

00-01-14-09-0066.jpg00-01-14-09-0067.jpg

If you save your pennies a little longer you can get a Dan Wesson or STI production gun. The Springfield Armory TRP that I mentioned before is pretty sweet too. You can also find used Les Baer's (they're a semi-custom manufacturer) for around the same price range. Many of the new Les Baer's are in the $1700-$1800 range. I love my production 1911s, but when put up against a semi-custom they just don't compare. There is a noticeable difference in fit and finish. The action is smoother, and the whole gun is tuned at a different level. You don't notice the finer details unless you really compare the two. I can only imagine what a true custom 1911 is like, but I don't have $5K or $6K to spend on one, and at that point I think your just paying for the look of the firearm.

If this is your first 1911, stick with a production 1911 from the two manufacturers you were looking at. I'd look at Colt too. If this isn't your first 1911, I'd think about saving a little more and looking at a semi-custom (Nighthawk, Les Baer, Ed Brown, and Wilson Combat).

I hope I answered your question.

EDIT:

Colt's

Dan Wesson

STI

Nighthawk Custom I have a Talon IV. I also have a Talon II and Enforcer on the way; 10% mil direct from the manufacturer

Les Baer

Ed Brown

Wilson Combat

Edited by Timbonez
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Sorry M2, didn't mean to slight you. Timbonez just seemed like the right person to ask - he's always showing off his 27 different 1911s. TB - Thanks for the great response, very helpful and definitely answered my question. It is my first 1911 and I'm leaning towards the Springfield TRP. Seems like the best bang for the buck - M2 any insight you'd like to provide would also be appreciated.

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Alright Timbonez, you can probably help me out. I have $1000 to spend on a 1911, which one? I was thinking Kimber Stainless II or a Sringfield Loaded. Thoughts?

I have a Kimber Stainless TLE/RL II (5") (similar to Stainless II, but with rail). I haven't used the rail at all but it came with night sights. Fantastic gun and has been flawless for about 1.5k rounds. It is far more accurate than I am.

I also have a Kimber Ultra Carry in Stainless (3"). Almost the same gun (night sights, no rail) only smaller. It is also FAR more accurate than I am and has been flawless with about 2k rounds even with daily carry in Phoenix heat (grit, dust, and Hoss sweat).

Both are about $1000 or so depending on where you buy. I like a 'stainless' gun for daily carry (corrosion, scratches, etc.) .. although you should read up on what parts are made out of what materials. It really depends on what you plan to do with the gun. I carry my 3" all the time in shorts, flip flops, and a T-shirt where I can't quite pull that off with a 5" 1911.

No matter what gun you choose, just make sure it's a 1911. Don't let M2 talk you into a plastic girl gun!

(edits for spell'n and gun porn)

post-1152-12700558916_thumb.jpg

post-1152-127005590231_thumb.jpg

Edited by HossHarris
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Sweet, thanks for the input (except the part about the Hoss sweat). It's back to a toss-up now between the SA and Kimber.

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Spoo

No worries, I was just giving ya some shit for asking T-bonez directly!

However, I do agree with his recommendations. The problem isn't finding a good M1911 in that price range, it's picking one! I obviously have a preference for Springfields, but there are many others which I would own as well if I didn't already spend all my money on Soviet milsurp rifles!

I'd almost agree with H2 except for his crack about the "plastic girl gun." I still prefer my XD for conceal carry, if only for the slight increase in reliability and lighter weight (mostly the latter).

Hacker's another M1911 affectionado, hopefully he'll pipe up with his favorites as well.

And I wish I was in your predicament, for me it's more of too many choices and not enough moolah! :banghead:

Have fun! M2

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Spoo

No worries, I was just giving ya some shit for asking T-bonez directly!

However, I do agree with his recommendations. The problem isn't finding a good M1911 in that price range, it's picking one! I obviously have a preference for Springfields, but there are many others which I would own as well if I didn't already spend all my money on Soviet milsurp rifles!

I'd almost agree with H2 except for his crack about the "plastic girl gun." I still prefer my XD for conceal carry, if only for the slight increase in reliability and lighter weight (mostly the latter).

Hacker's another M1911 affectionado, hopefully he'll pipe up with his favorites as well.

And I wish I was in your predicament, for me it's more of too many choices and not enough moolah! :banghead:

Have fun! M2

Thanks brother - can't wait. No worries on the "plastic girl gun" thing either. I just traded my barely used Glock 19 for a new Ruger LCP. Love that little sucker, one sweet little pocket gun. You put that thing in your coat pocket, you don't even know it's there.

Another extremely pressing issue for the masses: I'm thinking about a .38 snubbie revolver (after the 1911). I've got my sights set on the Taurus 856 Hy Lite - 6 Shot, very light, little gun. I've never owned a Taurus and I've read a lot of mixed reviews. Thoughts?

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JarheadBoom

Depends, what weapons do you already have, and do you have a carry permit? Excuse me if I should know this, but I am getting old and forgetful!

I'd still go for a 1911 over an AR, but it all depends on what you've got!

And a separate note...

This is why, no matter how hot your girlfriend is, if she's a bimbo then don't give her a full-auto AK...

Anyone else instinctively duck?

Cheers! M2

Edited by M2
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Yeah, I flinched. Those guys setting her up are real brain surgeons.

IBoth are about $1000 or so depending on where you buy. I like a 'stainless' gun for daily carry (corrosion, scratches, etc.).

How do you carry, STS? Just got my CCW and I'm still trying to figure out what works.

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How do you carry, STS? Just got my CCW and I'm still trying to figure out what works.

I carry mine at about the 3:30 to 4 o'clock position, in a Comp-Tac Minotaur. It is very comfortable and if I want to carry a different gun I either just get a different body for it, or just get the same type of gun.

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I prefer a shoulder harness, especially for a heavier pistol like my 1911s; but due to the impracticality of carrying with one during the summer I usually just use a lefthanded IWB at 6 o'clock. I am righthanded, but prefer the grip facing outward at that position...

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