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I've heard the full-length guide rod described as "a solution to a problem that 99% of 1911 owners don't have", and as "yet another way to squeeze $$ from 1911 owners".

Since I do not yet own a 1911, take this with a [large] grain of salt; YMMV.

edit for fat-fingered spelins an stuf

Edited by JarheadBoom
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I am not sure why this thread was locked, but I am looking into it and will have it back open as soon as possible!

I just assumed that you'd heard a rumor that someone had a larger arsenal than yours, and you locked it to be sure they didn't post about it....

:beer:

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I just assumed that you'd heard a rumor that someone had a larger arsenal than yours, and you locked it to be sure they didn't post about it....

:beer:

Impossible, as no one's arsenal is bigger than mine! (no STS!) :salut::rock::mosh::moon::notworthy:

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Can someone enlighten me on the pros/cons of having a full length guide rod on a 1911? I haven't been able to get any straightforward answers.

Thanks for opening the thread back up, M2.

To expound on what Jarhead said, it really is a solution to a non-problem. There are those who believe that the recoil spring will bind if it is captured by a standard GI guide rod and plug. If you have a 1911 or are able to take one apart and look at it, you will see that it is pretty much impossible. With the slide forward and the spring sitting in the plug and around the guide rod there is a minute amount (don't remember the exact length off the top of my cranium) of spring that isn't in contact with the plug or guide rod. If you can imagine it sitting inside the 1911, it has the barrel above it and the dust cover below it preventing any movement along the longitudinal axis. As the slide moves rearward and the spring compresses, the spring completely rests on guide rod and in plug.

Using a standard GI guide rod and plug also allows you to take the weapon apart without a tool. The full length guide rod requires that the spring cup plug's end be open. There isn't enough surface area to push the plug down to start taking down the weapon. That isn't exactly true. There is but your fingers will curse you for it.

Also, if you want to operate the weapon one-handed (like if you're injured) you can still rack the slide by using a flat surface pressed up against where the guide rod plug is and pushing forward. This only works on Government sized models as the Commanders and smaller models don't have enough length in the slide to fully eject a case and chamber one, since you're not cycling the slide completely this way. Look at 0:10 in the video below.

The one advantage the full length guide rod does provide is extra weight to control recoil, and some people like the change in balance as well.

Personally I prefer the standard GI guide rod and plug. Only one of my 1911s came with the FLGR, and I replaced it.

Hopefully this animation makes my explanation understandable.

Edited by Timbonez
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To expound on what Jarhead said, it really is a solution to a non-problem. There are those who believe that the recoil spring will bind if it is captured by a standard GI guide rod and plug. If you have a 1911 or are able to take one apart and look at it, you will see that it is pretty much impossible. With the slide forward and the spring sitting in the plug and around the guide rod there is a minute amount (don't remember the exact length off the top of my cranium) of spring that isn't in contact with the plug or guide rod. If you can imagine it sitting inside the 1911, it has the barrel above it and the dust cover below it preventing any movement along the longitudinal axis. As the slide moves rearward and the spring compresses, the spring completely rests on guide rod and in plug.

Using a standard GI guide rod and plug also allows you to take the weapon apart without a tool. The full length guide rod requires that the spring cup plug's end be open. There isn't enough surface area to push the plug down to start taking down the weapon. That isn't exactly true. There is but your fingers will curse you for it.

Also, if you want to operate the weapon one-handed (like if you're injured) you can still rack the slide by using a flat surface pressed up against where the guide rod plug is and pushing forward. This only works on Government sized models as the Commanders and smaller models don't have enough length in the slide to fully eject a case and chamber one, since you're not cycling the slide completely this way. Look at 0:10 in the video below.

The one advantage the full length guide rod does provide is extra weight to control recoil, and some people like the change in balance as well.

Personally I prefer the standard GI guide rod and plug. Only one of my 1911s came with the FLGR, and I replaced it.

Hopefully this animation makes my explanation understandable.

That pretty much cleared things up. What Jarhard said is almost exactly what I've been told in the past, only the statement was followed by a blank stare on the part of the expositor. Apparently I was supposed to know the answer to the question I was asking when I was chatting with the guy at the gun shop. Thanks for the help, gents.

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Gents, here is my "Service Grade" M1 from CMP. Looks great, shoots great, and sounds awesome. I love that enbloc ping. The stock looks new as CMP probably replaced it. I added the the sling (new leather) and the bayonet (unissued surplus from CMP). Now I've got my eye on a new Springfield M1A (but expensive).

post-4767-060950000 1285214327_thumb.jpg

Bang..Bang..Bang......Bang..Bang.....Bang..Bang.....Bang..Ping!

(in otherwords, I'm out)

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, I put the spare new barrel I got with my GSG-5 in yesterday afternoon, and I think I know the source of my FTF problems!

The top side of the feed ramp isn't too bad...here it is compared to the new one on the bottom...

IMG_3732.jpg

But check out the burr on the bottom! smiley_abused.gif

IMG_3735.jpg

So hopefully I've got the cure!

Oh, and here's a pic of my GSG-5; it really is a fun little carbine, I just hope this solves the issues I've been having with it!

IMG_3733.jpg

Cheers! M2

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Stoleit, you're a Magpul whore. How is that PRS? It's too expensive for me.

M2, hope that fixes your functioning problems. Keep us updated.

Haha. I'm going to the range tomorrow so I'll let you know. Just stalking the neighbors via the scope it seems awesome though!

What's the difference between the GSG-5 and the MP-5?

22LR vs 9mm and a boat load of cash. Basically the GSG-5 is an MP-5 clone in an extremely cheap caliber.

It's an awesome plinker.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just curious if any of you guys have used the crossbreed mini tuck or comp-tac MTAC IWB holsters? I've been researching them a lot lately and they both seem to get awesome reviews. I'm looking for an IWB holster for my Kahr PM40 and am pretty sure one of these two will work well for me. I tried a crossbreed today at one of the local gun shops (only had it for a Ruger LCP) and it seemed to work well and as advertised--though I'm sure like most holsters it will take some getting used to. Thoughts?

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Just curious if any of you guys have used the crossbreed mini tuck or comp-tac MTAC IWB holsters? I've been researching them a lot lately and they both seem to get awesome reviews. I'm looking for an IWB holster for my Kahr PM40 and am pretty sure one of these two will work well for me. I tried a crossbreed today at one of the local gun shops (only had it for a Ruger LCP) and it seemed to work well and as advertised--though I'm sure like most holsters it will take some getting used to. Thoughts?

I have an MTAC for my XD45. I love it. They may cost a little more than the Crossbreed's but being able to change out the body for a different gun is nice. So you get one holster and then you can buy different bodies for all your guns instead of having to buy separate holsters for all of your guns. Plus Comp-Tac offers a mil discount as well.

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Fellas, I may have an opportunity to buy a Sig Arms SHR 970, with both the .300 win mag and .30-06 barrels, bolts, and magazines. N.I.B. Guy asking $1000. Gunbroker auctions starting at @650 with scope and only one barrel. Would love to hear your thoughts...

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I have to give props to my wife, here's my winging/birthday gift as well as an addition to my arsenal: a Springfield GI 45 Compact! I’ve already taken it to the range, and 200 WWB rounds through it with no problems. So far it’s pretty accurate with 1-2" groupings at 7yd and 4-5" at 15yds.

post-4584-036850800 1287711217_thumb.jpg

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Guest Hund Von Krieg
EDIT: I told her I'd take it home, look it up, and give a reasonable price for it. But holy shit, I had no idea... I had no intention of buying an old WW2 rifle for the price these things are going for. Now I'm screwed. I don't want to give it back, and I don't want to give what it's worth, and I'm not going to take advantage of a little ol lady. I'm a cheap bastard.

Those are sexy beasts! I found one in my Gpa's office when I was 15 and shot it everytime I went to visit. It still has the instruction manual in the butt stock. We've kept it up in good shape, they are super expensive. So as to keep it interesting here is one from my modest collection.

17564_394157940383_693095383_10352335_3093196_n.jpg

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pix705224645.jpg

Those grips are awesome looking. Are they wood, or some composite? They also look stippled rathe than checkered, yes?

Nice piece.

Edited by JarheadBoom
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Those grips are awesome looking. Are they wood, or some composite? They also look stippled rathe than checkered, yes?

Nice piece.

They're G10 grips. The texturing is a golf ball type pattern. VZ Grips offers paper, linen, canvas, and G10 grips for several different types of handguns (primarily the 1911 and HP). I have a set of HP pro slims in tiger stripe on my current HP, and I plan on buying some HP 320s in hyena brown for my third HP. Two of my Nighthawk 1911s came with VZ grips as well.

VZ is also running a 10% discount on items over $65 right now until midnight tomorrow. OCT2010 is the promotional code.

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